Oscar de la Renta, Shabd gets in on shibori

Like Proenza Schouler, fashion heavyweight Oscar de la Renta gets shibori-tied with his Spring Summer 2011 collection. And Brooklyn-based newcomer Shabd bases her whole line on shibori, deftly using it to a wonderfully subtle watercolor effect. Dreamy...
(images: (top) Oscar de la Renta shibori chiffon caftan dress; (bottom) shabd blue marble geode dress)

Message from Yoshiko re: Japan & Fundraiser

A note from Yoshiko and information on a fundraiser, "Handmade for Japan".
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Dear Friends,
Thank you for your emails of concern regarding Japan and our friends there. I caught the news of the earthquake while at the Delhi Airport waiting for my flight home from India.

I have spoken with some of our friends and family in Kiryu in Gunma Prefecture, Tokyo, even in Fukushima Prefecture and other parts of Japan and found them all fine and calm. But the pending nuclear disaster is the biggest concern for all.

Foods and gasoline have become scarce and some friends in the greater Tokyo area are trying to flee to the West. Our papermaker friend, Mr. Shio -- who accompanied me on my recent trip to India -- was in Tokyo at a tradeshow at a big convention center near the Tokyo Bay when the earthquake struck. Having lived through a large earthquake that hit his hometown of Tottori several years back, Mr. Shio knew immediately what to do: he took off running to higher ground. Everyone started following him up to the roof. Thankfully, the tsunami didn't hit. After miles of walking, he found an open metro line to Haneda airport and flew back home to the Japan Sea Coast in the western part of Honshu Island (away from the affected area though there is another nuclear power plant in Shimane Prefecture not too far from them).

The upcoming SFS program in Japan in May/June, fortunately, does not include Miyagi, Iwate, or Fukushima Prefectures and the destinations are not affected by the devastation at the moment.

Let us pray that the worst will be avoided at the nuclear power plant.
Thank you all for your concerns.

Yoshiko

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A Japan fundraiser has been organized by ceramist Ayumi Horie and friends -- "HANDMADE FOR JAPAN" is an eBay art auction starting Thursday, 8p EST. All proceeds will go to Global Living. Learn more about the auction here.

The Reinvention of Silk (NYT, Mar 7 2011)

"The Reinvention of Silk," an article published in today's New York Times, discusses new, outside-the-box creations of this versatile filament. Since spider's can't spin enough of it, "some scientists are ... working on reinventing the one silk that is commonly available — that of silkworms. They are reconstituting it to make novel materials that have the potential to go far beyond the dream of bulletproof vests." Read full article here

(above) Silk creations by Tufts University researchers include a coilmade of silk substrate and gold that can help tell when food goes bad.

(above) Pure silk fibroin powder used to make solvent-based silk scaffolds that take a long time to degrade in the body.

Photo credits: Bryce Vickmark, for the NYT

Proenza Schouler's SS11 collex brings "shibori" to fashionista lexicon

Bergdorf Goodman helps introduce the word "shibori" to the well-heeled set.

Fashion darlings, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who head the high-end designer label, Proenza Schouler, are bringing shibori into fashionable closets across the country with their SS11 collection. What's more? They are actually calling it by its name: SHIBORI. Now, that's a first. Read the description from Bergdorf's below.
Count this as a win, folks.

Shibori Chiffon Dress

Familiar elements come together in unfamiliar ways on this Proenza Schouler dress. The foundation for this innovation is shibori, a traditional Japanese dye technique similar to tie dye—but different in subtle, important ways.

More from the collection.

voile shirtdress "with diamond print" (left) and shirtdress in "sunburst print" (below) available at La Garconne

News from Around...

In 2011, I wanted to post with more regularity on the blog (we'll see how that goes) and that includes highlighting work from some of our readers -- some new to shibori and some very seasoned. It's always a thrill to hear from people who have just begun experimenting with shibori in all its complexities and to seethis technique inspire more people. So, with that, let's begin...

irresistible resist

Shipra writes to us from India: I got interested in Shibori after a workshop I took in Jaipur. I, along with my friend, started practising it, mostly from Ms. Wada's book. It has been very enriching experience. We have been practising it for last one and a half year. I am thankful to you for amazingly informative book and a lovely website. www.irresistibleresist.blogspot.com

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SUZUSAN.e.K. featured in Stijlvol Wonen

Popular Dutch shelter magazine "Stijlvol Wonen" (Stylish Living) recently featured shibori lamps produced by Hiroshi Murase from his line, SUZUSAN.e.K. Very stylish, indeed. www.suzusan-shibori.com

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Michelle Victoria McGrath

Michelle Victoria McGrath is a graduate from the University of Wales Newport. A few years ago, she gave up her full time job as a teacher to pursue her dream of becoming a fashion designer. Three years of schooling later, she won the Ryder Cup Fashion Show competition and training with Paul Costelloe in LFW 2011. Michelle is currently setting up her own label, MVM, which will be based in Wales. www.michellevictoriamcgrath.com

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Paris American Academy

And a final note from our wonderful friend, Peter Carman, Director of Paris American Academy (PAA) and former host of the ISS in France (2008). They launched a new website and it looks GREAT! If ever you're in Paris and want to see a top-notch fashion academy, head to PAA. And before you do, see what new things might be happening: check out their Current Events section on the web. www.parisamericanacademy.fr

Remembering Mary Kellogg Rice

Celebrating Mary Kellogg Rice

Artist, Author, Supporter of Crafts

It is with sadness that I write about the recent passing of Mary Kellogg Rice, a beautiful spirit and accomplished woman who lived a rich and full life. She had just celebrated her 100th birthday in December 2010.

Among her many contributions to the community and art world, Mary co-authored "Shibori: The Inventive Art of Shaped Resist Dyeing" with me and Jane Barton, a seminal book in my professional career and for the art of shibori and textile design in general. Mary was also involved in the WPA during the Great Depression, serving as art director for the Milwaukee State Teachers College where women were taught weaving, block-printing, quilting, and other crafts. She recorded her experience in her second book, "Useful Work for Unskilled Women: A Unique WPA Project," which earned a 2004 Wisconsin State Historical Society Book Award of Merit.

A private gathering will be held for only family and close friends. Thank you.

Thank you, Mary, for all that you did for the textile and crafts community over the last 100 years. You were a wonderful colleague and friend.

Warm regards,

Yoshiko

Mary's co-author and President of the World Shibori Network

Workshop: baandhani & leheria with kamaldeep kaur (May 2011, netherlands)

Baandhani & Leheriya:
reviving traditional Indian resist dyeing techniques

3-day workshop with Kameldeep Kaur (India)

- 19, 20, 21 May 2011 -

studio zijdelings

netherlands

India has been known since antiquity for amazing handcrafted textile techniques. Resist dyed and printed textiles have long been a popular Indian export with Gujarat and Madras serving as two important ports and producing centres for Dutch and British companies.

KAMALDEEP KAUR will instruct a 3-day workshop on the age-old techniques and patterns of baandhani and leheriya using natural dyes, such as madder, daru haldi, and lac. Kamaldeep is a noted researcher from India who has been involved in the revival of several traditional techniques as well as the continuation of existing crafts through design consultancy and product development.

Day 1. The course begins with the story of baandhani and leheriya: a brief introduction with images of process, wearers, makers, surroundings, and traditional and contemporary products. Next is instruction in leheriya on finer silk fabric, which we will prepare and soak overnight for you. Once tied, the samples can be dyed with madder the very same day. You will be able to make several different samples. Some of the samples can be opened, then re-tied and re-dyed the next day for two colour effects.

Day 2. Morning begins with a presentation on natural dyes, followed by preparing daru haldi. We continue with baandhani tying and dye at the end of the day.

Day 3. The final day is devoted to lac dyeing. Morning starts with tying, then working in groups near the dye bath to talk about how to develop it. Samples tied today can be full scarves rather than smaller swatches. We may do two different lac dye baths (time permitting): one with tamarind and one with vinegar to show the difference in brightness of colour. We may also use different mordants to yield different shades.

This class will be in English. Coffee / tea & lunch will be provided.

DATES: 19,20,21 May 2011, 10am-5pm

COURSE FEE: € 300,00 excluding materials. There will be an additional lab fee for natural dyes and Indian silk

LOCATION: Studio Zijdelings Tilburg - The Netherlands

INSTRUCTOR: Kamaldeep Kaur, India

CONTACT: Karina van Vught www.zijdelings.com

Saturday (Dec4): Indigo Lecture w Barbara Shapiro, Asian Art Museum SF

The Magic of Indigo
 with Barbara Shapiro
for the Society of Asian Art
Asian Art Museum, San Francisco

When: Saturday, December 4

Time: 2:00 pm – 4:00 pm

Place: Education Studio
, Asian Art Museum
Fee: $15 members, $25 non-member


Note: Registration required

This richly illustrated lecture explores the history and importance of indigo as a dyestuff the trade of which has had widespread ramifications and has touched many aspects of life in diverse cultures. The story of indigo is a fascinating way to look at world history. Called the king of colors and the color of kings, indigo has a strong Asian connection as a commodity traded worldwide and as a revered dye with Asian artisans. We will explore cultural and contemporary applications in Asia and around the world and shed light on the mysteries of this most magical blue dye. Contact: (T) 415.581.3701 or saa@asianart.org

Barbara Shapiro is a textile artist and long standing member of the World Shibori Network. She is a Board Member of the Textile Society of America and the Textile Arts Council of SF. Her artwork has been widely exhibited and published locally and internationally. A specialist in indigo dye, her teaching venues for weaving, dyeing, and basketry techniques include San Francisco State University and the Osher Lifelong Learning Institute.

Anthropologie "Ice Wine" Shibori Clutch

National retailer Anthropologie, known for their vintage-bohemian-girly looks, is getting in on the shibori train with their "Ice Wine" clutch (described as "frozen silk grapes'). Also some ikat inspired beaded clutches on offer -- quite chic, actually.

Recap: Yoshiko's NZ teaching tour

Wow, New Zealand has a lot going on!

Yoshiko recently returned from a 1.5month teaching tour through Australia and New Zealand where she was able to reunite with many longtime textile friends and had opportunities to meet new ones. Thanks to everyone for creating a wonderful teaching itinerary and setting up such fulfilling social events.

Special thanks to Deb Donnelly for her coordination efforts in NZ and for sharing these great photos and recaps. Check out the full NZ set on flickr


Meisen Kimono Art Moderne show at Expressions Gallery
18 Sept - 18 October 2010
Curated by Yoshiko, mounted by Rebecca Pubben and Expressions Gallery

The advertised floor talk on 30 September drew in a capacity audience at Vectra Gallery to hear a detailed description of works, its provenance and ways to identify this particular design movement in silk materials and techniques not always apparent on first glance. Yoshiko fully explained the rise of a more liberated Japanese consumer with lifestyles never before experienced in Japan. Meisen were popular just prior to the decreased supply of kimono post WW 2 up to late 1950s when western clothing became more widely accepted for workers, schools, manufacturers and general consumers alike. The Meisen Kimono Art Moderne exhibition was sponsored by Whitireia NZ and its response drawn from local artisans in possum merino felt, dyes on scarves, buttons and netsuke carvings including Owen Mapp, Hanne Eriksen Mapp, Clare Smith, Deb Donnelly, Rosemary Mortimer and Barry Young who attended the floortalk. (recap by Deb Donnelly)



Visit to Stansborough Textile Weaving Mill

Famous for their textile designs for films; Lord of the Rings trilogy and The Narnia chronicles, owners Cheryl and Barry Eldridge produce Stansborough fleece of unique lustre and high tensile strength on their family sheep farm in Wairarapa near Wellington. Specially woven lengths of naturally coloured material from Stansborough sheep were supplied to students enrolled on the New Material Transformation workshop at Whitireia Polytechnic NZ from 27 Sept - 1 Oct.
The results of the cloth explorations and Yoshiko's rigorous conceptual and technical teaching is being documented by textiles tutor Deb Donnelly for future classes and industry design developments. A deeper understanding of the cloth's potential will enable NZ designers to carry on producing unique visions of this NZ icon. (recap by Deb Donnelly)


Boro Workshop
Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology